Madrid
books AND music
· LA BUENA VIDA, C/Vergara 10, near the Teatro Real (M: Ópera)
Small book/coffeeshop with a well-edited collection of Spanish-language publications, contemporary and otherwise. Sometimes they have concerts, too.
· CD DROME, C/Pozas 6, Malasaña (M: Noviciado)
Madrid branch of Barcelona stalwart. Good place to pick up info about latest hipster happenings.
· DESNIVEL, pza Matute 6, between C/Huertas and Atocha
The travel nerd’s first port of call. Especially excellent selection on hiking and camping.
· PANTA RHEI, C/Hernán Cortés 7 between C/Fuencarral and Hortaleza
Hard to leave without one of the many beautiful art/design books on offer. Downstairs space is dedicated to interesting rotating exhibits.
· OCHO y MEDIO, C/Martín de los Heros 11, just west of M: Plaza de España
The cinephile’s first port of call, whose creative window display is usually well-done. Among its several in-house publications “Colección Espiral” focuses on screenplays. Make sure to grab a loyalty card that gives discounts on purchases.
· PASAJES, C/Génova 3, just east of M: Alonso Martínez
The word nerd’s first port of call. Spanish-language material as you enter, language-learning and English in the back, and all others downstairs.
coffee AND food
· EL AZUL DE FÚCAR, C/Fúcar 5, Huertas
The carrot cake well…takes the cake! The decor is cozy as well, as though they should be constantly streaming some soft indie chamber pop.
· DIURNO, corner of C/ San Marco and Libertad, Chueca
Chic little take-away/DVD café with pretty tasty homemade smoothies (even if they are a bit on the small side).
· GAUDEAMUS, on the 4th floor of the UNED building, C/Tribulete 4, Lavapiés (M: Lavapiés)
Really, it’s all about the rooftop terraza. The bistro fare is OK and expensive.
· HELADERIA LOS ALPES, C/Arcipreste de Hita 6, behind M: Moncloa
Over 50 years of artisan ice cream, continually evolving and inventing. My favorite is the pistachio milkshake.
· YERBABUENA, C/Bordadores 3, off of C/Mayor between M: Sol and Ópera
You can’t miss this vegan restaurant’s bright green doors. Fair weekday lunch menus. Just thinking about the last meal I had there is making me hungry.
· ZOE CAFÉ, C/Santa María, 28, Huertas (M: Anton Martín)
My favorite restaurant in Madrid, self-styled as Berlin/Hamburg food space/gallery. (Last time there were naked Barbies installed in the floor and Smurfs episodes being screened on the walls.) Excellent and affordable (~15€) weekday lunch menu.
art AND cinema
· C/Martín de los Heros, west of M: Plaza de España
It’s indie cinema heaven at the SE end of this street. Not only do you have Ocho y Medio bookshop, but right across the street is GOLEM cinema (I once spotted el Almodóvar y la Pe there) as well as a branch of the Renoir chain.
· LA CASA ENCENDIDA, Lavapiés (M: Embajadores)
Rotating programming featuring exhibits, talks, courses–you name it, they probably do it (or are at least open to doing so). Lovely rooftop terrace for relaxing.
· MAD IS MAD, C/Pelayo 48, Chueca
Bookshop/gallery featuring contemporary art. I’ve heard it’s hopping especially during vernissages.
· SALA del CANAL de ISABEL II, C/Santa Engracia 125 (M: Ríos Rosas)
Free photography exhibits in a neo-Mudéjar water tower.
clothes AND accessories
· BISCUIT, C/Divino Pastor 15, Malasaña (M: Tribunal)
Very strong on local designers, and sometimes even include a t-shirt-shaped biscuit with purchases! Nice!
· MOTT, C/Barquillo 31, Chueca (M: Chueca)
I sigh a little the few times I opt to go into this shop, like walking into a friend’s extremely feminine and francophile wardrobe.
· EL PEQUEÑO BAZAAR, C/Santa Teresa 12, Salesas (M: Alonso Martínez)
Quite literally a closet, featuring discounted duds from its sister shops, Bazaar and Scooter. Have found Vanessa Bruno pieces at 75% off, so it’s worth a look every once in a while if you’re into understated pija parisina chic with a bobo flair.
· PEZ, C/Regueros 15, Salesas (M: Alonso Martínez)
If I were Leonor Watling, I would shop here all of the time. No joke. Similar selection as the other shops in what’s being touted as Madrid’s SoHo, but the airy shop interior is the most inviting.
etc
· I don’t drink, but una caña is apparently a draft beer.
· LaNetro can help you figure out what to do around town.
· Malasaña’s peSeta have collaborated with Marc Jacobs and Lorean Mendiak, among others.
